In a
2023 CNN interview, Michelle Zauner was asked by Chris Wallace to explain the origin of her band name Japanese Breakfast. After all, Zauner was born in Seoul to a Korean mother and American father and subsequently raised in Eugene, Oregon, an upbringing she chronicled in her 2021 memoir “Crying in H Mart.” Maybe by then Zauner had grown tired of the query, not quite giving as full an answer as she has given in other places, just sort of vaguely referencing the pleasing imagery of a Japanese-style morning meal. Indeed, on the
A24 podcast a year earlier, Zauner professed regret about her band name and how people reflexively assumed she was Japanese, wishing she could go back and rename it. Just as Patterson Hood has lamented, he never thought his own band Drive-By Truckers would get so big, and once it did, it was too late to change the moniker. And so, in a way Zauner’s own intention got the best of her. In speaking with Sandra Song of
Teen Vogue in 2017, Zauner said she liked the name because it combined the familiar with the exotic. “I thought it would make people curious,” she said, “like ‘What is a Japanese breakfast?’”

I missed the first couple Japanese Breakfast albums, catching up with “Jubilee” in 2021 which, as it happened, was the year My Beautiful, Perspicacious Wife and I had originally planned to visit Japan. The global pandemic delayed our visit, and we wound up going for two weeks last fall in 2024. All our vacations, long or short, abroad or in the states, make eating a focal point, but in a city like Tokyo, which has roughly the number of restaurants that Syracuse, New York has people, it became even more paramount. Given My Beautiful, Perspicacious Wife’s diligent planning of lunches and dinners, and snacks in-between, we were content to keep breakfast simple by having it each morning at the hotel. And though one might not ordinarily think of a hotel breakfast buffet in the same sort of breathtaking terms as, say, a multi-course Kaiseki meal, like the one we had in Kyoto, Japanese breakfast, it turned out, took my breath away, nevertheless.
The layout brought Zauner’s description of her band name to life. Because upon entering the dining room, an American such as myself would first see a familiar western style breakfast spread off eggs, bacon, sausage, and toast. Take a few steps forward, however, and then turn to the left and there it was, an exotic Japanese style breakfast buffet of rice and miso soup and shumai and all manner of side dishes right beside it. I don’t want to go overboard here and say it was like going from black and white to Technicolor in “The Wizard of Oz.” I had some croissants and pastries, and some jam too, and the truth is, they were far better than you will get at virtually any breakfast buffet in the actual west, evoking that Japanese idea that whatever you are doing should be done to perfection. But it did feel like how the late Anthony Bourdain described Tokyo, as a whole window opening up into a whole new thing. “Mesmerizing. Intimidating. Disorienting.” That first morning I went for it, availing myself of almost everything, from candied sweet potatoes to fish cakes to salted cod roe to natto (i.e. fermented soybeans). You might deem it the Pacific Rim version of an unlimited steakhouse salad bar and, hey, I’m never one to shy away from the green marshmallow fruit salad, so why I wouldn’t try natto? (The natto was the one item that didn’t work for me. They can’t all be winners, can they?)
As I quickly learned, however, the real secret to Japanese breakfast was studying other Japanese people in the dining room and copying their moves. One morning, I noticed the Japanese man at the table next to ours finishing his breakfast with what appeared to be pudding in a jar. I went and got one for myself. This, it turned out, was Purin, a kind of Japanese flan, crème caramel or vanilla, take your pick, and for the rest of our trip, I finished every one of my breakfasts with Purin. I mean, c’mon, seriously, breakfast dessert: that’s advanced. Another morning, I saw a Japanese man at a table near ours stirring a raw egg into rice. This was Tamago kake gohan, which Zauner referenced in that CNN interview, though as a lover of porridge, I thought of it as egg porridge, sort of state-of-the-art oatmeal, often adding a little scallion and seaweed. Once I figured it out, I ate it every morning. It’s not hyperbole to say it changed my life.
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Tamago Kake Gohan (e.g. egg porridge) |
The sheer abundance of quality food in Japan is hard to imagine until you experience it. Restaurants stacked on top of restaurants stacked on top of restaurants. Noodles that were impossibly toothsome; broth so flavorful and rich I did as the Japanese did and brought the bowl right up to my mouth and slurped up every last drop; egg salad sandwiches from 7-Elevens that have no right to be that good; I had the best sushi experience of my life in Kyoto; I had grape soft serve twice! And yet, five months out, what I think about most, and what I miss the worst, is that egg porridge chased with Purin. All of which is to say, once you’ve had Japanese breakfast, believe me, you will never need to ask Japanese Breakfast why they are called that ever again.